Vela Stiniva route list

Sectors map:

Sector A – “By the road”

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How to reach this sector: Prior to reaching the bay, you will see a not-so-tall rock formation and a parking for 2 cars on your left. On the left side of the road is Sector A. It is good for your small children or climbing schools, but not for much else. 🙂

Routes from Left to right:

  1. Cusco 5a 8 m
  2. Yzma 5a 8 m
  3. Kronk 5b 8 m
  4. Pacha 5a+ 7 m
  5. Tico 5b+/c 7 m
  6. Berni 5b+ 8 m
  7. Lina 5c 8 m
  8. Toja 5b+ 8 m
  9. Gaj 5b/b+ 8 m
  10. Dolly 5a/a+ 7 m
  11. Tetris 5a/a+ 7 m
  12. Katja 5b+ 7 m
  13. Dexter 5b+ 7 m
  14. Baltazar 5b+ 7 m
  15. ? 5c 6 m
  16. ? 5c 6 m
  17. ? 5c 6 m
  18. ? 5c 6 m
  19. ? 5c 6 m
  20. ? 5c 6 m
  21. ? 5c 5 m
  22. ? 5c 6 m
  23. Traverse all routes from right to left, 6b+ (be careful and have a solid belayer)

Sector B – “Above the road”

How to reach this sector: Prior to reaching the bay, you will see a not-so-tall rock formation and a parking for 2 cars on your left. On the right side of the road is Sector B. It is good for your small children or climbing schools, but not for much else. 🙂

Routes from Left to Right

  1. Liba 5c 7 m
  2. Laca 5c 7 m
  3. Lak 5c 7 m
  4. Želva 5c 7 m

Sector C – “Cave”

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How to reach this sector: When you reach the seafront, park on the public parking. The only legal way to reach the sector is by backtracking up the asphalt road until you reach a small basketball court. Walk right into the dirt road and then again right behind the houses, following the dirt road. At the end of the dirt road, you will see a small wood track, the sector is just 50m from there. This sector is the crown of Vela Stiniva.

Routes from Left to Right

  1. Udruga stina 5c 12 m
  2. Santa Maria 6b/b+ 12m
  3. Galeb 6c 13 m
  4. Zubatac 7a+ 13 m
  5. Lavanda 6b+ 15 m
  6. Crossing Villi 7b+ 17m
  7. Free Villy 7b 17 m
  8. Maestral 7a+ 17 m
  9. Bonaca 6c+ 17 m
  10. Sahara 6c+/7a 19 m
  11. Potala 7a+ 19 m
  12. Tramuntana 7a+/b 16 m
  13. Shark 8a 17 m
  14. Hot Tuna 8a+ 17 m
  15. Genom 8a 18 m
  16. Project ? (first one on the right side of the cave, open project) 21 m
  17. Project ? (open project) 15 m
  18. Message in the bottle 7a+/b 14 m
  19. Spartak 7b+ 13 m
  20. Mediteranea 7a 13 m

Sector D – “East side”

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How to reach this sector: When you reach the seafront, park on the public parking. Backtrack up the east side of the asphalt road and take the last turn up to the woods where possible (after the houses). There are different approaches, most of them include bushes as obstacles, since this sector is not popular for tourists (summer heat) and it is off-the-beaten-track.

News: in Sector D are two different group of routes. Please see the picture. Also, some of the routes have been added with non-glue spits so please be cautious and please report to our e-mail if you see any rusting in bolts.

Routes From right to left:

Not glue bolts:
1. Love at first sight 7a+/b 20m
1a. ? 6c 15m
2. ? 5c 12m
3. 6a+ 14m
4. ? 7a 15m
5. ? 7a 15m
6. ? 6a 15m
7. ? ? 13m
8. ? ? 13m
9. ? 6c 22m
10. ? 5c 25m
11. ? 5c 25m
10a ? 7a 25m
12 ? 6b 24m
13. ? 6c 25m

Glue bolts:
14. Der hvare Held 7b 26m
15. Leistentrauma 7a+ 26m
16. Lesiterntraum 6c+/7a 30m
17. Viva Stiniva 6b+ 27m

Sector D – Topo – #1

Sector E – “Above the cave”

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How to reach this sector: When you reach the seafront, park on the public parking. The only legal way to reach the sector is by backtracking up the western (upward) asphalt road until you reach a small basketball court. Walk right into the dirt road and then again right behind the houses, following the dirt road. At the end of the dirt road, you will see a small wood track. In front of you is the “Cave sector”, but take the left wood track uphill to reach this sector.

Routes are still fresh so be careful, you may still find some loose rock. We advice the use of a helmet for both the belayer and the climber.

South-Eeast Rock

Routes from Right to left
1. SO-Verschneidung, 25m, 5b
2. Fastenzeit, 25m, 6b+
3. Easy cheesy, 13m, 6a+/b
4. Kleiner Donner, 22m, 6c+
5. Mopfeiler, 22m, 6b+
6. U-Runse, 17m, 6b
7. Bohrinsel, 18m, 7a
8. 7a for sure, 18m, 6c+
9. Der kleine Alpinist, 18m, 6c

 

Morning Sun Rock
(Rock starts 20m from “Der Kleine Alpinist”)

Routes from Right to left
10. Schlusspfiff, 13m, 6a+
11. Chalkowitch, 13m, 7a+
12. Longline, 15m, 6b
13. Cobra, 18m, 6a
14. King Cobra, 12m, 6c
15. Blue Tornado, 18m, 6a
16. Goldfinger, 20m, 6b+/c
17. Die Bohra, 29m, 6c
18. Der große Alpinist, 30m, 6b
19. Für´s Hasi, 20m, 6a+
20. Offside, 20m, 5c
21. Mon amour, 18m, 5b
22. Verdonesque, 27m, 6b
23. Cornetto, 32m, 6c+/7a
24. White Line, 30m, 7a+
25. Der letzte Alpinist, 28m, 6
26. Center Court, 25m, 7b+
27. Falcon Crest, 25m, 7a+

5 Comments

  1. Peter Szij
    October 26, 2015
    Reply

    We did a couple of goes on the route ‘Center court’ in Sector E (above the cave), until a big chunk of rock came of the wall. It was just after the crux, to the left from the last bolt. I don’t know whether this changes the grade, but more importantly I think the route should be checked out, if it is safe to climb. I had my helmet on, but it wouldn’t have made any difference if I had stood directly below my partner…

  2. October 26, 2015
    Reply

    Hi Peter, good to hear that you are fine!!
    New areas are always like this, you can never clean them enough 🙁

  3. […] village named Zastražišće. We spent two days ticking off just about every single climb in sectors A and B, which was a good mix of beginner and intermediate […]

  4. Lacikee
    August 21, 2019
    Reply

    hello people, 19.8. 19 we were with kids climbing in Vela Stivina sector B. I lost my wedding ring, there. It will probably be somewhere in the middle of the sector..Please any finder to contact me at l.capanda@gmail.com. Thanx..L.

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